
The daladala was late.
We were asked to come to the early morning meeting at 8 am, to formally say goodbye to Temeke Hospital.
Today is Thursday.
Yesterday was supposed to be our last day of work, and our plan was to casually say goodbye to all the staff during our shift.
While everyone knew for weeks that our last day was Wednesday,
when Dr. Asha --the directive,
distant voice of authority at the hospital--
found out that we were going without a “goodbye”, she was very upset.
You just don’t leave like that. There needs to be something official.
To avoid offense, the decision was made to come the following day for the single purpose of respecting the formality of saying goodbye.

So here we are waiting,
outside our house for the dala dala.
We need to be there for the early morning meeting.
The plan was to stand at the front,
with all the hospital staff at once,
say thank you,
smile,
and then go.
Simply that.
That will suffice,
we will have paid our proper dues,
and we can leave on a good, closured note.
It is getting later and later.
Our driver is not here.
Finally he rolls up with the back end bouncing and characteristic rap music blaring from the open windows.
We were picked up 25 minutes late.
The whole ride there, I had this sinking feeling.
Being late.
Holding up the staff.
Dishonouring their time.
What a way to leave.
Everything in me was resisting the comparison and judgement I was wanting to have towards the driver.
We gave our word to be there at 8:00 am;
we didn’t arrive untiil 8:30am.
We had all worn our special clothes. I wore my hair down.
We wanted to honour them, and now we were half an hour late.
But what do we do?

I was hoping that it would be like “Africa time” and things would have started late. The meeting would still be going on,
we’d show up,
blow in and blow out, waving and smiling,
and beaming and glowing,
give a concise little speech,
maybe take a few photos,
a happy goodbye and have laughter down the halls upon exit.
But time is time, a hospital is a hospital, and people must be at their shifts.

We get to the 3rd floor, and are met by a disappointed nurse.
The meeting has finished, chairs are dispersed,
there is a small scatter of doctors whom I don’t recognize.
“We waited for you.
We extended the meeting for half an hour. But we just dismissed everyone. They are working in their wards now.”
“We are very sorry--our daladala was late. Everyday he is on time, but today -- he wasn’t.”
It seems like such a feeble excuse. But it’s true.
We meet the Maternity Nurse In Charge, and our smiles are weak.
If only we were on time...

We stand there, and I can feel this sinking feeling as the anti-climax starts to realize.
The disappointment. All the doctors, nurses, that we have grown to love over the past 2 months, waiting for us, and we never showed. Will this be their last memory of us?
The Nurse In Charge, notebook in hand,
devises an idea that she speaks into existence.
“Now,
we will visit every ward
and personally say goodbye.”
She gives a quick flick of her hand,
and with that, we go.
I take the elevator and the sidekick nurse who I don’t recognize, compliments me on my outfit.
“This looks very smart,” she says,
as she eyes up my puffed shoulder sleeves.
‘Smart’ here means fashionable.
“Thank you.” I say.
Africans appreciate the pleated shoulder look.
*
We walk past the TB and Leprosy Ward, and onto Ward 7: Minor Surgeries and dressing wounds.
Everyone is on a stretcher-like bed, all in varying stages of recovery or deterioration.
We file in to the small space, as a man in white pulls a sheet over a body.
“Say something...” The Nurse in Charge tells us.
“Um, -- we have been blessed to know you, and work with you --”
The other patients turn their weary heads, and are intrigued at this batch of white girls speaking English.
The nurses look endearing; we continue.
“And we know how hard you work
and we appreciate all that you do, everyday.
We have learned much from you, and thank you for taking the time to teach us and to be patient with us---”
I am distracted by this sheeted body that this man is preparing.
He moves swiftly, and lifts a stainless steel angular box-lid over the body and it lands with a stark, lifeless clang. Then out he goes, pushing the body up the ramp, out to the road, and then in to the mortuary.
So this is the average day. Another death.
It’s not even 9 in the morning, and someone has died already.
Life goes on;
this is the hospital,
and the morgue man will make his morning round.
Our eyes are wide,
we forget to blink,
yet instead of showing the look of bewilderness and shock,
we remember to smile and say our thank you’s to the staff.
It is a hard job to work here.
The staff feel honoured that we would personally show up and say goodbye.
Onto the Female Surgical Ward.
It looks different than the Maternity Wing.
There is sorrow here.
There are beds that look like stretchers
strewn in a haphazard fashion,
IV drips are tied to painted pipes jutting out of the walls,
and the walls: at one time they were white?
They are very dirty.
Everyone looks solemn in here, in for different reasons.
There is a quiet hush.
There is a frail young woman, weakly sitting up on her bed,
pouring a spoonful of liquid iron supplement.
Is that really going to do anything at this point?
Seeing her state, somehow I feel she needs more than a high Hb.
We all huddle around the doctor desk and say a similar thank-you-speech to those that are working.
I feel like tiptoeing out of there.
I’ve never seen any other wards other than our wing, and I am quickly realizing that we were working in the nicest part.
We follow the zigzag of hallways and arrive at Ward 4.
Top 10 Diseases of Ward 4:
1. Malaria
2. HIV/AIDS
3. Anemia
4. Hypertension
5. TB
This is a hand written sign on the billboard.
I couldn’t see number 6, number 7, or the rest of the 10.
The steel mortuary body trolley-lid was leaning up against the board and covering the list.
Morgue man is here for pick-up.
There are men and women.
They all look as though they are dying.
Thin, wasting, weak, sleeping, waiting.
One young man is holding a sleeping young woman on the bed. Perhaps his wife.
Another wrinkled old woman looks at me as she labours to breathe and holds her old friend’s hand.
Another mother is at her grown daughter’s bedside.
A thin man is curled into the sag of the mattress, unmoving. At least he gets his own bed.
Next, the Pediatric Ward. Ward Ya Watoto.
There are high beds,
and it looks like families are living on them.
2 or 3 children, plus a mom and maybe a dad.
There is the lively babble of children, but in a quiet, ill type of way.
It is one open room. Everyone sees everything. No partitions.
To my right there are high cribs with a boy with a tube in his nostril and his mother.
The other open crib holds a 7 or 8 year old girl, staring at a point in the ceiling, focusing on weakly swallowing the white porridge her mother is feeding her.
The mother is young, in her twenties, her left hand supporting her daughter’s back, the other hand patiently bringing the spoon to her mouth.
She hardly notices us.
I feel like I am in a place that doesn’t get noticed.
I feel like I am in a place that doesn’t get visitors.
The smiling morgue-man wheels in his steel body-trolley.
He swiftly walks to the corner, reaches behind a makeshift curtain behind some beds and comes back with a small bundle of a body wrapped in a khanga.
He places it gently but quickly on the trolley, and there is a thick thud.
I read the fabric-tape label handwritten over his chest. One year old.
The man brings another, slightly larger body and drops it beside this one. One and a half years.
He starts to push the cart,
but gets alerted by a hand motion and a grunt by a mother whose daughter is sleeping on a cot.
She points to a different corner, next to the high cribs, next to the mosquito nets,
hidden by the sweep of a temporary fabric curtain.
There lies a longer, larger body, wrapped head to toe in a burgundy and white printed kitenghe.
He lifts the body up, and the body does not fold in his arms.
Rigor mortis has set in. This body takes up most of the room on the trolley; I glance at the tape tag, 10 years old. Female.
With that, the man with the smiling eyes navigates his way out, bashing into the iron weigh scale in the tight space on his way out.
He’s gone. We stay.
And these people, stay.
They’ve stayed for a long time in this room.
Knowing the ones that die.
What a terrifying thought to be nursing your child back to hopeful health with the smell of death in the bed next to you.
These mothers are champions. The courageous ones.
Steadfast in the presence of last breaths.
We say our goodbyes to the staff and thank them.
They are very touched that we came. As painful and uncomfortable as it is, I am glad we are here. I am glad we are going to each ward to visit the staff and leave on a personal, heartfelt note.
We turn the corner and enter our more-familiar neck of the woods, the maternity wing.
Our first stop is ICU, and during our sincere speech to the doctors we have worked with day after day, the Nurse in Charge bolts to the office door and reappears wiping her tears with a sterile gauze ball.
(The closest thing to kleenex in the ward!)
There are tears for many.
I did not expect this to be so emotional for the doctors!
We make a quick stop at the Lab,
there are specimens of sputum on the cart near the doorway.
I find a spot against the wall and a girl lab assistant makes a double take at me.
She smiles. “You are looking very smart,” she says, pinching my puffy shoulders on my African blouse. They love the puffed look here.
Now onto the infamous halls of the Labour Ward.
Familiar smells, familiar spaces.
It’s not busy in here right now. There is a silence in the waiting.
The weather is changing from overcast
to pregnant with grey rain,
and while we say our dear thank you’s,
the downpour begins outside.
The nurses start to break down and fall apart in the embrace of our arms.
Sister Latisia is shielding her eyes with her hand as the tears fill and spill over. She holds herself there in the loving embrace of one of the students,
not ready to do this and say goodbye twenty times over.
We hug each one, and give one final word of gratitude.
We walk the much-travelled hallway to the Antenatal Ward.
It is packed.
There seem to be an absence of doctors, which is not unusal.
We say our goodbye. This is the most emotional one. We’ve done a lot in Antenatal Care. We’ve learned so much here, had so much diverse opportunity, and risen to the occasion to tackle difficult nursing skills.
A male doctor gives us a speech:
He says that they have seen
the way we are with the women,
and they are inspired by our approach.
They see our gentleness,
our love,
our care,
and have seen places in their own practice
where they have grown weary and worn.
It was a speech of utmost gratitude,
and honestly unexpected!
Wow, we had no idea the impact we had.
Even in the small things, our attitudes, our value for the individual...they noticed!
Before we go, I manage to take a few shots of the overwhelming sight of the Antenatal Ward.
I kindly ask their permission, and they agree.
This is what it looks like every day. Two, three, four to a bed.



This is the everyday sight.
Bodies overflowing, spilling out into the walkway, lying on mattresses on the floor. There they ride the increasing waves of the pain of labour.
Though it is overwhelming,
this is the moment where we would
take a deep breath,
step forward,
and start the day.
It is a very special place. I see the need, and I just want to stay there.
The rain is pouring hard now, and there is the rainy day atmosphere of dreamlike dreariness, the surrealness hovers over saying our goodbyes.
We pass the hospital canteen and say goodbye to Aisha, our beloved friend and chef who faithfully served us lunch every day.

Our final ward to go is OPD.
I still never found out what it stands for.
We don’t really go to this area, but still they would like us to say goodbye.
There are ultrasounds, x-ray rooms, and wooden benches packed with bunches of people.
We say a thank you, and walk inbetween the long corridor rows of people back to the entrance of the hospital.
I connect eyes with a covered woman sitting.
Her head and face are hidden with black, and her eyes peer through the slit.
I can tell she is smiling.
She waves at me and I give a quick wave back as I pass her.
I wonder what she looks like.
We piled into the dala dala awaiting our return,
and the Nurse in Charge asks if she can pray for us.
Of course!
She belts out this powerful stream of a Swahili heart-cry and I can hear the words “Yesu Christo”, “Mungu”, “Bwana”, “Gina la Yesu” interspersed throughout her prayer.
“Jesus Christ”, “God”, “Lord”, “in the name of Jesus”.
This whole time, I didn’t know the Nurse in Charge was a Christian!
This no-nonsense, straighforward, integrous, teacher, knowledgable, compassionate leader of the Maternity wing, a believer.
What a way to be sent off!
We sat in a quietness on the ride home. The rain had stopped, the air was moist, and the road was soft.
Goodbye Temeke, we love you!
I don’t know why, but I want to describe this goodbye as watching an object fall in slow motion and shatter and break into a thousand pieces. It was painful. Drawn out. Confronting.
We were opened and
allowed access (that we did not ask for)
to the real nooks and crannies of the hospital.
The result for our being late, was more than a parade of saying goodbye to the doctors.
It was having a new eye open to the hospital. My perspective was widened.
What we knew as Temeke, the maternity wing, was different.
There is an optimism there; even amid the neglect of proper care, the women at least have vigour.
Even among the sorrow of stillborns, there is still a renewed appreciation for the miracle and strength of life.
The rest of the hospital was dire.
In Maternity, the women come in for a day, deliver, and walk out. Healthy.
But for the other wards, Hospitals are a last resort, when diseases have progressed
and many are waiting to die.

We saw 4 deaths that morning. Four cold, wrapped bodies.
And this happens every day.
That is a harsh reality.
And thus the painful goodbye.
Not painful in the sense of “we’ll miss you”,
painful in the sense of witnessing a tragedy in slow motion, experiencing the fulness of the situation,
and wishing if you closed your eyes,
it wasn’t really there.
But it is.
And we say, goodbye.
Our time at Temeke was a colourful one. Some times were bright, some bleak, some dark, some brilliant.
The final days in Africa were like finishing the final sentence of a really well written book.
and even though you have anticipated the end,
the final words
still feel like a surprise.
But the book is done,
and even though you’re grasping for more,
you and the author both know that it’s over.
Even when you turn the page, it is blank, Confirming what you already know in your mind but need to convince your heart that it is finished.
All you can have now is memories of being a part of it;
writing it.
Flipping through each page, each story, attempts at capturing the rise and fall of emotion, translating the sounds, colours, and expressions of the face into something understandable for others to have a peek.
You’re wanting to go back and re-read some parts,
but the context won’t be quite the same, the feelings you first felt
will be trumped by what you know happens next.
You want to search for more of the book,
but it’s over.

Disbelief.
Going through the motions,
realizing that life goes on, a hospital never stops.
Nor does it wait for you to arrive if your ride is late.
Instead of having the easy, formal, tidy farewell,
she will take you through each hall, seeing every circumstance,
seeing for one last time
the real
needy
desperate
dim
grim
enduring
painful
goodbye.